Piazzetta San Marco and the Two Columns

Overlooking the stunning Bacino di San Marco, Piazzetta San Marco is one of the most iconic corners of Venice. This elegant square, which serves as an antechamber to the famous Piazza San Marco, is dominated by two imposing granite columns, each with its own story to tell. On one side stands the famous Lion of Saint Mark, the undisputed symbol of the Serenissima; on the other, the statue of Saint Theodore, the city's first patron saint.

The Two Columns: Guardians of the Serenissima

The two columns were erected in the 12th century when Doge Sebastiano Ziani had three massive granite columns transported to Venice from the East. During unloading, one of them fell into the sea and was never recovered, while the remaining two were placed in their current location, becoming a landmark for anyone arriving in Venice by sea.

The Lion of Saint Mark: A Symbol of Power and Glory

On the column closest to the Marciana Library stands the majestic Winged Lion, the emblem of the city and its independence. The lion is depicted with an open book, bearing the famous inscription:

Pax tibi Marce, evangelista meus
(Peace be with you, Mark, my evangelist.)

This phrase highlights Venice’s spiritual mission and its connection to Saint Mark, whose relics were brought to the city in 828 AD.

The lion we see today has a complex history. The original sculpture, likely of Persian or Greco-Roman origin, has undergone several restorations. In 1797, after the fall of the Republic, Napoleon had it transported to Paris, but it was returned a few years later in fragments. The statue was reconstructed and placed back on the column, once again standing as the proud symbol of the city.

Saint Theodore: Venice’s First Patron Saint

On the other column stands the figure of Saint Theodore, Venice’s first patron before Saint Mark was officially adopted. The statue portrays the saint as a Roman soldier, holding a spear in his right hand and standing over a defeated dragon, symbolizing his miraculous feat.

The current statue is a combination of different parts: the head and torso come from an ancient sculpture, while the rest was added later. Even the "dragon" at Saint Theodore’s feet has an unusual origin—it is actually a stone crocodile, a detail that highlights the artistic fusion of different periods and cultures.

A Forbidden Passage: History and Superstition

The two columns are not only historical monuments but also central to an old Venetian superstition. For centuries, the space between them has been considered unlucky, as it was the site of public executions during the Serenissima. It is said that the condemned were displayed before the crowd, facing the Doge’s Palace and Saint Mark’s Basilica, before their sentence was carried out.

Even today, many Venetians avoid walking between the columns, preferring to take a small detour for good luck.

A Unique View of the Lagoon

Beyond their historical and symbolic significance, the Columns of Saint Mark offer one of the most spectacular views of Venice. From here, you can admire San Giorgio Maggiore Island, with its Palladian church, and watch the gondolas and boats moving across the Bacino di San Marco.

Walking through Piazzetta San Marco, surrounded by the atmosphere of the Serenissima, is like stepping into centuries of history, legends, and traditions that make Venice truly timeless.

If you’re planning a visit, take a moment to stop and admire the columns—but will you dare to walk between them, or will you take the safer route?